NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK

  A Look at the Risks and Dangers of Climbing

North Cascades National Park is a rugged and magnificent wilderness, boasting of dramatic ridges and valleys, hundreds of glaciers, and an uncommon remoteness. The park, which spans nearly 800 square miles, is located in the northern part of Washington State, close to the Canadian border. The park is a very hazardous place for climbers and visitors, with volatile weather conditions, an unstable landscape magnified by climate change, and an absence of significant infrastructure.

North Cascades National Park is a Mecca for experienced climbers, guides, and mountaineers who seek to test their skills against some of the most challenging terrains in the world. However, visitors need to be aware of the many risks associated with climbing, hiking, and other activities in the park. This article highlights some of the risks and dangers of climbing in North Cascades National Park.

The Ban on Bolted Anchors

North Cascades National Park has a ban on bolted anchors, which can be a potential source of danger for visitors. This rule means that visitors must rely on other, less secure anchors like nylon webbing, which can be unreliable and unsafe. The ban on bolted anchors is designed to preserve a wilderness experience that reflects a raw style of mountaineering, according to the park's website. The policy aims to avoid turning the wilderness into a "climbing gym with bolts all over the mountain." However, this ban can make climbing more hazardous, especially for less experienced climbers who rely on fixed anchors to secure their climb.

The Risks of Temporary Anchors

The lack of clear rules for temporary anchors can also be dangerous, leading visitors to place anchors in inappropriate places. This can lead to accidents, especially for less experienced climbers. The absence of high-quality fixed anchors also poses a risk to visitors, resulting in "near misses" and accidents. Visitors need to exercise caution when using temporary anchors and ensure that they are adequately secured to prevent accidents.

Death on Forbidden Peak

The risks of climbing in North Cascades National Park were evident in August 2012 when an off-duty guide replaced an old, unsafe "sling" anchor with two bolts on the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak, one of the park's most popular routes. The guide was trying to protect climbers from rockfall by establishing a safer route, according to Erik Murdock, the vice president of policy and government affairs for the Access Fund, a nonprofit organization that advocates for climbers and supports the use of bolted anchors. However, Bush, the former ranger who oversaw the park's mountaineering program before she retired nearly a decade ago, alerted the park's top official about the bolts, and the park's rangers removed the anchors within days. The park's superintendent then added a regulation to the park compendium that prohibited bolted anchors, according to Bush.

A year after the removal, on Sept. 14, 2013, a climber descending Forbidden Peak's West Ridge was hit by a falling rock and plunged 300 feet to his death, according to an account Bush wrote three days later. The risks of climbing in North Cascades National Park are high, and visitors need to exercise extreme caution when visiting the park.

Conclusion

North Cascades National Park is a magnificent and rugged wilderness, but visitors need to be aware of the many risks and dangers associated with climbing and hiking in the park. The ban on bolted anchors and the absence of clear rules for temporary anchors can make climbing more hazardous, leading to accidents and near misses. Visitors need to exercise caution when using temporary anchors, ensure that they are adequately secured, and be aware of the risks associated with climbing in North Cascades National Park.